Monday 22 August 2011

No Particular Place to Go


It doesn’t take much to make me happy – an open road, a full tank, no deadlines and no particular place to go. I’m stuck at my desk, looking out on a beautiful summer day, and my to-do list is suddenly irrelevant. My job deals in the intangible but my taste in pleasure is simple and solid: a motorcycle, tarmac, time.
The growling purr of the engine, the feeling of endless raw power and the miles rolling by… There is a biker slogan, found on T-shirts, mugs, bumper-stickers, you name it: If I have to Explain, You Wouldn’t Understand.
I might be a writer by nature, but I’m a biker by blood. So call me a petrolhead, a rebel, dangerous, antisocial, anarchic - call me anything you want – I’ll just put my lid on, hook my comms to my iPod, and follow my heartbeat out onto the backroads: discovering new villages, monuments, forests, pubs – places I wouldn’t discover by train or plane or car, because on a bike there’s no metal between me and the environment. There’s a reason we call cars cages.
At the end of the day, when I park up and swing my feet back onto the ground, I’m tired, but exhilirated. And at the end of the day, isn’t that what’s important? That we enjoy the journey, the experience, so if the particular place we end up in isn’t quite the one we had in mind, at least we have that sense of satifisfaction, of simple pleasure, from the ride...

Monday 27 June 2011

Summer days, drifted away...

http://www.hogeuropegallery.com/hog-videos/watch/20th-european-hog-rallycroatia-harley-days/
As I can't go back - at least not yet, all I can do is start the countdown to Cascais 2012.
(And hey, maybe I'll even get to make my own video of it if i play my Christmas list right...)

Saturday 4 June 2011

Home again

Home again
3000 road miles, plus 3 sea crossings (roughly another 500 miles), far
too many gelati, croissants and local red wines later, I'm back on the
left side of the road, reminding myself that the signs are in miles
already and the speed limit is only 70.
Oh, and the car drivers understand what I'm shouting at them - which
is probably not a good thing. (although I suppose there is a vague
chance it might teach them to look and/or indicate before changing
lanes and cutting me up).
The border crossing at the tunnel was very slow, with customs being as
thorough as Croatia (who were pretty diligent). I must look innocent,
despite the noisy pipes and overstuffed baggage, because I got waved
past the sniffer dogs in Croatia and past the team pulling random
vehicles to pieces in Calais.
But I'm back now. Until the next time...

PS: pics are now fixed. I hope. Don't know what went wrong there but
seems to be a mac/pc language issue. Much like me/Europe.


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Pics

Pics
I'm told there are viewing problems with the photos I loaded to this
blog. I shall repost them asap.
Thanks


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Friday 3 June 2011

PS

It must be said, in fairness, that despite the rain and wind and cold, the road to mont blanc was stunning. The clouds drifted between the snow-tipped mountains, making castles in the air of the buildings lower down. If my hands had worked, I'd have taken pics.

Thursday 2 June 2011

Penultimate ride

Penultimate ride
Thursday dawned overcast and positively wintry. I still felt cold from
wednesday's mountain madness, so got dressed in windproof thermal base
layer, shirt, jeans, thermal socks, still damp boots, jacket with
inner and winter buff. And then needed three coffees and fresh from
the oven croissants to feel humanoid.
But it cleared and warmed up, and we found, quite by chance, that the
D971 through Champagne is a lovely little road.
Reluctantly returning to the peage at half-four, we have found a hotel
in Reims with a very nice restaurant next door (yes, it's a roadside
set-up, but this is France, so the food is actually very good and so
is the pays doc house merlot: you know you're in France when the wine
list of a roadside grill runs to four pages).
Hard to think the trip is nearly over. I want to turn around and head
back to Croatia, but I'll have to settle for planning next year...


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And the storm won't come...




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30 miles to France - a farce

30 miles to France - a farce
So we awoke in Riva del Garda at the top of lake Garda halfway between
Venice and Milan and the rain had arrived.
At first it seemed to be stopping, and we set off down the lakeside
with fingers crossed. After 40km, we pulled into a side tunnel to put
our waterproofs on.
And the wind came up and the rain came down all the way to Milan. We
stopped at the services and decided on the shortest route to France.
Then we hit the motorway again. Let me say now that Ancona is not the
only place in Italy that could use a lesson in signposting. And for
what they cost to use, Italian motorways are a rip-off given the road
surface. Eventually I successfully negotiated the Milan/monza/Turin
junction (Italy loves its pasta. Every junction appears inspired by
spaghetti).
Lynn's tires aren't happy in the wet, and the rain was pelting so we
were relying on my non-existent italian and purported sense of
direction. Let's just say it turned out to be something of a scenic
route.
As I followed the signs for monte bianco and Geneva, I kept converting
the kms to miles to make myself feel better - soaked and frozen as I
was by the time we reached the alps.
Then the rain came down and the wind came up. You try cornering a
heavy, loaded bike through a hairpin over potholes in the driving rain
and a contrary cross-gale, OK?
We stopped for espresso because we were both too cold to feel hands or
feet (very heavy in wet boots, which makes riding and walking rather
difficult). The gent behind me in the coffee queue looked at me and
struggled not to laugh, which was very polite, given that neither of
us could shiver for giggling.
And with every lovely dry tunnel up the mountains I told myself "30
more miles to France".
Mont blanc itself is lovely. Expensive but for that you get nearly
12km of heated dry tunnel in which to ride in your own personal steam
cloud as you dry/thaw a little.
France of course, was dry. Viciously corkscrew down 60% gradients, but
dry.
We had planned to peage it to beaune near Dijon but couldn't stand the
cold or wet so stopped just inside the Franco-swiss border at a place
that spoke English, but had no food other than mcdonalds. Luckily my
teeth were chattering too much to chew. (and at least they do coffee
these days).


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Lago di Garda




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Riva del Garda




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More dolomites




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Dolomites



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Venezia to lago di Garda

Venezia to lago di Garda
We went through the Dolomite mountains. They are spectacular. And full
of twisty corners on various gradients. These are not my favourite
things, especially on a downhill. The only times I've dropped a bike
have been on tight corners, so I'm slightly panicky about them and
tension is the last thing you need to corner well.
I also get distracted by scenery: note to self - do not drive over the
edge and down the ravine. No really don't.
Having twisted all the way up to the Swiss border, we twisted back
south on a spectacular motorway to lake Garda (which hosted the HOG
rally a few years ago, which I missed).
The wind was picking up and thunderstorms were predicted, so we
twisted along the lakeside to Riva del Garda, a town lousy with hotels
and restaurants. On the map, it was the last stop till Salo, 80km away
at the bottom of the lake.
We stopped, checked in and waited in vain for the storms. We got
drizzle but no drama.


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Monday 30 May 2011

Sunset over the grand canal Venice



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Venezia

Venezia
Right. So. The first thing to note is that Ancona could learn a few
things about signposting. Like how on earth to get out of the ferry
port without gate-crashing the boarding queue at a different departure
pier. Seriously, 200 odd Harleys thundering through your orderly queue
will cause chaos very fast.
We tried to find the coast road to Venice, but the satnav and Italy
disagree as to the definition of an autostrada, so to save time we
wound up on the motorway to bologna. Which was full of roadworks and
slow trucks.
We got off at Ferrara and rejoined (after a few false starts and stops
to checkthe map as the satnav was sulking and the roads weren't
marked) the SS16 along the coast. Do not try this at home. It is not a
good road. Believe me.
We got into Venezia around 4 and the day improved with pre-booked
parking, hotel nearby and near the centre and time to do a little
sightseeing.
Tomorrow we head (hopefully) for the Dolomites. Lots of twisties.
Should be fun. Um.


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The obligatory gondolas




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Venezia - San Marco square



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Buongiorno Italia! (yawns).

6am is way too early to be up. But the ferry docks at 7 and I need to
hand in my cabin key in order to get my passport back.
The most insane thing on the ferry has been that they don't take card
and don't have any kind of overpriced ATM either. They also only take
euros and only exchange kuna with reluctance (despite advertising a
forex desk). This left us a bit short as we didn't gave much euro cash
left and couldn't draw euros in Croatia, only kuna.
Anyway, we managed enough for our needs and will have a better
breakfast when on land.
Otherwise it's been fine. Nothing's been too expensive and we're
nearly back in a land that takes card (Croatia is a cash economy).
Time to go down to the bike and reload, strap down and kit up.


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Buongiorno, Italia




The italian coast from the ferry cafe Sent from my iPhone
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Hvala nam puno, Hrvatska!




(Croatia, thank you very much) Sent from my iPhone

Roman Split from the ferry deck




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Sunday 29 May 2011

Adriatic Adventures (Split harbour)




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The rest of what's left of the palace




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What ever happened to Diocletian's old place?




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Road to split 2




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Road to Split 1



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Split

I am sitting in Split, about 50 yards from the remains of Diocletian's palace. I have managed to get wifi again and discovered an error in my last attempt to post stuff. But it's all up now.
We are here far too early, as our ferry's not till 8pm, and it's barely lunch. Still, I have been loving Croatia so don't mind wandering around Split for a few hours.

Fwd: Me at krka falls



Sent from my iPhone

Begin forwarded message:

From: Deryn Verner <derynjv@yahoo.co.uk>
Date: May 29, 2011 11:11:24 GMT+01:00
To: ava.verris@babyhogb10g.com
Subject: Me at krka falls
Reply-To: Deryn Verner <derynjv@yahoo.co.uk>





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Fwd: Krka reserve, Dalmatia



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Begin forwarded message:

From: Deryn Verner <derynjv@yahoo.co.uk>
Date: May 29, 2011 11:10:54 GMT+01:00
To: ava.verris@babyhogb10g.com
Subject: Krka reserve, Dalmatia
Reply-To: Deryn Verner <derynjv@yahoo.co.uk>





This reserve encompasses the Krk river valley. It has 19 reptiles incl 1 venomous and 2 semi-venomous snakes (how a snake can be semi- venomous, I have no clue) Sent from my iPhone

Fwd: Krka waterfalls



Sent from my iPhone

Begin forwarded message:

From: Deryn Verner <derynjv@yahoo.co.uk>
Date: May 29, 2011 11:11:01 GMT+01:00
To: ava.verris@babyhogb10g.com
Subject: Krka waterfalls
Reply-To: Deryn Verner <derynjv@yahoo.co.uk>





Sent from my iPhone

Fwd: Krka wildlife



Sent from my iPhone

Begin forwarded message:

From: Deryn Verner <derynjv@yahoo.co.uk>
Date: May 29, 2011 11:11:15 GMT+01:00
To: ava.verris@babyhogb10g.com
Subject: Krka wildlife
Reply-To: Deryn Verner <derynjv@yahoo.co.uk>





These little beasties are the only animals we saw, apart from fishes. Birds were only in evidence by their songs. Sent from my iPhone

Fwd: Krka



Sent from my iPhone

Begin forwarded message:

From: Deryn Verner <derynjv@yahoo.co.uk>
Date: May 29, 2011 11:11:30 GMT+01:00
To: ava.verris@babyhogb10g.com
Subject: Krka
Reply-To: Deryn Verner <derynjv@yahoo.co.uk>

Krka
We went to the Krka reserve today, because Grizz and Sue (biker  
friends from London) recommended it. We parked up on the gravel (yuk)  
and took the tourist bus down to the footpath. As soon as we were on  
the bus, I was glad we hadn't attempted to ride the road because it  
makes hairpins look straight. With no barriers other than rocky  
mountain side and vertiginous cliff.
The reserve is stunning, though (see pics). There's a wooden walkway  
through it and informative notices about wildlife and plants. And  
strategically placed tourist traps like ethno-historical recreations  
of mills, weavers etc, with attendant souvenir shops and local produce  
traders. I avoided the gift shops, but fell to the local cherries. No  
regrets there.
Croatia is particularly good at cherries, red wine and (Lynn tells me)  
beer.
On the way back we got caught in a nasty snarl-up caused by the  
obligatory chapter parade of harleys through town, which had closed  
the roads.
We shared a look, revved our throaty HD engines and wiggled around the  
police block to slide neatly into the parade as it rolled back into  
town. First time I've been in the official parade, and it had to be by  
accident!
The police didn't try to stop us; I guess they thought we belonged  
with all the other HOGs.


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Fwd: The rally's most unusual visitor



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Begin forwarded message:

From: Deryn Verner <derynjv@yahoo.co.uk>
Date: May 29, 2011 11:10:44 GMT+01:00
To: ava.verris@babyhogb10g.com
Subject: The rally's most unusual visitor
Reply-To: Deryn Verner <derynjv@yahoo.co.uk>





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Fwd: Is it a boat is it a sub?



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Begin forwarded message:

From: Deryn Verner <derynjv@yahoo.co.uk>
Date: May 27, 2011 15:28:06 GMT+01:00
To: "ava.verris@babyhogb10g.com" <ava.verris@babyhogb10g.com>
Subject: Is it a boat is it a sub?





Coolest boat in biograd marina Sent from my iPhone

Fwd: Biograd rally H-D by the sea



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Begin forwarded message:

From: Deryn Verner <derynjv@yahoo.co.uk>
Date: May 27, 2011 15:27:23 GMT+01:00
To: "ava.verris@babyhogb10g.com" <ava.verris@babyhogb10g.com>
Subject: Biograd rally H-D by the sea





I rode this fatboy, but prefer my 1200! Sent from my iPhone

Fwd: You know the tune



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Begin forwarded message:

From: Deryn Verner <derynjv@yahoo.co.uk>
Date: May 29, 2011 11:11:31 GMT+01:00
To: ava.verris@babyhogb10g.com
Subject: You know the tune
Reply-To: Deryn Verner <derynjv@yahoo.co.uk>

I'm a Harley girl
In a Harley world
Nothing plastic
It's fantastic!
Wind rushing through my hair
Riding everywhere
Exhiliration
Don't need a destination...


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Fwd: Rally from the new hotel



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Begin forwarded message:

From: Deryn Verner <derynjv@yahoo.co.uk>
Date: May 27, 2011 15:30:51 GMT+01:00
To: "ava.verris@babyhogb10g.com" <ava.verris@babyhogb10g.com>
Subject: Rally from the new hotel





It took 45 mins to go the 30km from zadar to biograd. Once there we ran into various bikers we know, including Gavin and Janet who told us paul's room was free in their hotel as he'd cancelled last minute. All prepaid, and right in the middle of the rally. So we went back to zadar, packed and moved into biograd for the rest of the stay. Sent from my iPhone

Fwd: Illyria



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Begin forwarded message:

From: Deryn Verner <derynjv@yahoo.co.uk>
Date: May 27, 2011 15:25:41 GMT+01:00
To: "ava.verris@babyhogb10g.com" <ava.verris@babyhogb10g.com>
Subject: Illyria

Illyria
So having woken Villach stupidly early (8) we headed to Slovenia where  
it is illegal to carry petrol on a motorway and illegal to run out of  
petrol on a motorway. Hokay. Turns out the mapbook lied and the  
klagenfurt services on the Austrian side of the tunnel don't do  
petrol, only food and other human comforts. I flicked my fuel tap onto  
reserve and held my thumbs for the next 30km, until just inside  
Slovenia there is a filling station. Which is significantly cheaper  
than Austria, Germany or France. Or the uk, come to that.
I breathed out and filled up.
Actually, you'd have to be criminally stupid to run out of fuel on a  
Slovenian motorway because their petrol stations are as frequent as  
their casinos (often in the same services. I refrain from analysing  
this).
Slovenia's very pretty. I'd heard horrible things about the smaller  
roads, but the uk is just as bad and with less excuse. We got to the  
border fairly easily and crossed into Croatia.
This involved having our passports checked twice and stamped once, a  
first in my eu travels with a red book. Maybe they have residual  
issues with some of their neighbours. Anyway, they let us through.
We stopped for coffee in Rijeka and then took the scenic route along  
the coast down the 200km to zadar.
Yes. For scenic route read corkscrew in a tornado along a cliff edge  
between landslide prone mountains and the deep blue (busy Adriatic)  
sea. It took ages.
And just as we were getting close, the traffic stopped. We pulled up  
behind a couple of German bikes that turned out to be hired by  
Americans.
The road had, a local car told us, been closed while they exploded  
some post war mines. The wait was probably an hour. Hokay.
The american's son asked the universe why anyone would have their  
country where leftover mines were. Welcome to Europe and the balkans,  
kiddo. We have wars on this land. =leftover mines.
I suppose you can't blame him. His parents were apparently certain  
people were still getting shot here on a daily basis.


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Fwd: Austria's idea of a B&B



Sent from my iPhone

Begin forwarded message:

From: Deryn Verner <derynjv@yahoo.co.uk>
Date: May 27, 2011 15:25:40 GMT+01:00
To: "ava.verris@babyhogb10g.com" <ava.verris@babyhogb10g.com>
Subject: Austria's idea of a B&B

Austria's idea of a B&B
We got into Austria just beyond Berchtesgarden and only realized
because the labelling on the petrol pumps had changed slightly.
Luckily diesel is universally clearly marked, so I didn't make that
mistake and thus far have not had to have my engine drained. Thus far.
We rode down from Salzburg to Villach in the south and decided it was
pretty and after last nights hotel nightmare, we didn't fancy trying
our luck in Lubljlana. In Slovene - I mean, at least Austria speaks
German and I can ask for a room without offending anyone.


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Fwd: Bavarian alps



Sent from my iPhone

Begin forwarded message:

From: Deryn Verner <derynjv@yahoo.co.uk>
Date: May 27, 2011 15:47:23 GMT+01:00
To: "ava.verris@babyhogb10g.com" <ava.verris@babyhogb10g.com>
Subject: Bavarian alps





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